{"id":9108,"date":"2018-01-17T15:13:00","date_gmt":"2018-01-17T14:13:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/swissbaker.ch\/?p=9108"},"modified":"2022-05-11T15:19:39","modified_gmt":"2022-05-11T13:19:39","slug":"se-mettre-devant-le-petrin-observer-ecouter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/swissbaker.ch\/fr\/panissimo-news\/se-mettre-devant-le-petrin-observer-ecouter\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00ab\u2009Se mettre devant le p\u00e9trin, observer, \u00e9couter\u2009\u00bb"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Dans le Jura bernois, r\u00e9gionalisme, fait maison et cr\u00e9ativit\u00e9 sont les ma\u00eetres-mots de la boulangerie-confiserie La Brioche, Orvin (BE), de Manuel Rytz. Les sp\u00e9cialit\u00e9s authentiques y occupent une place de choix. Rencontre avec une \u00e9quipe de passionn\u00e9s.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nombreuses sont les success-stories qui ont d\u00e9but\u00e9 dans un garage. Un d\u00e9marrage atypique qui se retrouve parfois dans la boulangerie-confiserie. C\u2019est le cas pour Manuel Rytz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e2tissier-confiseur alors employ\u00e9 dans une entreprise, il abandonne la profession durant dix ans\u2009: \u00ab\u2009J\u2019avais des probl\u00e8mes avec la qualit\u00e9 des produits propos\u00e9s. Ouvrir des bo\u00eetes ce n\u2019est pas mon truc\u2009\u00bb. Il revient au fournil en 2009. Il confectionne des articles chez lui et les vend dans son garage, \u00e0 Pr\u00e8s-d\u2019Orvin (BE). \u00ab\u2009Je l\u2019ai d\u2019abord fait apr\u00e8s mon travail. Cela marchait tellement bien que j\u2019ai fini par d\u00e9missionner pour m\u2019y consacrer \u00e0 100\u202f%.\u2009\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En 2014, il ach\u00e8te une boulangerie \u00e0 Orvin\u2009: \u00ab\u2009Le laboratoire \u00e9tait vieux et sur trois niveaux.\u2009\u00bb En quatre mois, les locaux sont refaits et un tea-room est cr\u00e9\u00e9\u2009: la Brioche est n\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab\u2009Le plaisir de travailler est essentiel\u2009\u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019entreprise compte aujourd\u2019hui vingt-deux employ\u00e9s contre trois \u00e0 l\u2019origine\u2009: neuf en production, dix \u00e0 la vente et trois livreurs. Manuel Rytz attache une importance toute particuli\u00e8re \u00e0 s\u2019entourer de passionn\u00e9s\u2009: \u00ab\u2009Le plaisir de travailler est essentiel, pour nous et pour notre client\u00e8le. Je choisis donc uniquement du personnel qui \u0153uvre avec son c\u0153ur, et aucun collaborateur n\u2019est pas du m\u00e9tier.\u2009\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019utilisation de mati\u00e8res r\u00e9gionales est un autre imp\u00e9ratif de la philosophie du patron\u2009: la farine, le sel, le lait destin\u00e9 \u00e0 \u00eatre cuit et la levure. Derni\u00e8rement, les emballages et le miel les ont rejoints. \u00ab\u2009Jusqu\u2019\u00e0 cet \u00e9t\u00e9, le miel provenait du Mexique et du Guatemala. A pr\u00e9sent, je m\u2019approvisionne aupr\u00e8s d\u2019une connaissance. Son prix est trois fois plus \u00e9lev\u00e9 que celui d\u2019Am\u00e9rique. Je peux me le permettre, car je n\u2019utilise que 200\u202fkg.\u2009\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tous les produits ne sont cependant pas locaux\u2009: les \u0153ufs, par exemple, en raison de leur chert\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

De ses mati\u00e8res premi\u00e8res naissent des sp\u00e9cialit\u00e9s maison et cr\u00e9atives. \u00ab\u2009Nous cr\u00e9ons beaucoup de produits\u2009; ce qui constitue l\u2019essence m\u00eame de notre m\u00e9tier, selon moi.\u2009\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab\u2009Fous d\u2019\u00e9peautre\u2009\u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Le patron peut notamment compter sur les connaissances et le savoir-faire de Sylvie Despont et d\u2019Adrien Knuchel. Ensemble, ils aiment revisiter, transformer, cr\u00e9er\u2009; mais toujours en s\u2019appuyant sur une base classique. Leur terrain de pr\u00e9dilection\u2009? Le pur \u00e9peautre. Pains, tresses, biscuits, bretzels \u00e0 la saumure, croissants, bonhomme en p\u00e2te\u2026 Le nombre de cr\u00e9ations estampill\u00e9es Urdinkel ne cesse de cro\u00eetre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ces \u00ab\u2009fous d\u2019\u00e9peautre\u2009\u00bb, comme ils se d\u00e9finissent, se sont passionn\u00e9s pour la vieille c\u00e9r\u00e9ale il y a deux ans, lorsqu\u2019ils ont r\u00e9pondu \u00e0 la demande de clients. Le challenge que repr\u00e9sentent le travail et les particularit\u00e9s de cette farine contenant moins de gluten les attire. \u00ab\u2009La stabilit\u00e9 de la p\u00e2te au p\u00e9trissage et \u00e0 la cuisson est plus faible que celle d\u2019autres produits\u2009\u00bb, explique M. Knuchel, avant de poursuivre. \u00ab\u2009Il ne suffit donc pas de lancer un programme et d\u2019attendre. Cela demande de l\u2019attention, il faut se mettre devant le p\u00e9trin, observer, \u00e9couter.\u2009\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019\u00e9laboration de ces produits n\u00e9cessite de la pratique. Cela a particuli\u00e8rement \u00e9t\u00e9 le cas avec les croissants, pr\u00e9cise Sylvie Despont, championne romande de p\u00e2tisserie et de confiserie\u2009: \u00ab\u2009Il nous a fallu environ trois mois de tests, \u00e0 raison d\u2019une p\u00e2te par semaine.\u2009\u00bb Les premiers essais n\u2019ont cependant pas \u00e9t\u00e9 concluants. Et M. Knuchel d\u2019expliquer\u2009: \u00ab\u2009Apr\u00e8s avoir pass\u00e9 deux jours au cong\u00e9lateur, les croissants \u00e9taient petits et lourds. (\u2026) Lors d\u2019une \u00e9ni\u00e8me tentative, j\u2019ai remarqu\u00e9 par hasard qu\u2019un tourage sp\u00e9cial offrait davantage de volume et de l\u00e9g\u00e8ret\u00e9\u2009; de quoi pouvoir vendre les croissants.\u2009\u00bb Mis en avant par le personnel de vente, le produit de boulangerie au l\u00e9ger go\u00fbt de noix a rapidement rencontr\u00e9 du succ\u00e8s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pas de limites<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Evidemment, toutes les cr\u00e9ations \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9peautre de l\u2019entreprise ne connaissent pas la m\u00eame destin\u00e9e. \u00ab\u2009Nous avions \u00e9labor\u00e9 des miches au lard, aux noix et aux oignons, tr\u00e8s bonnes \u00e0 mon go\u00fbt, par exemple. Les clients les trouvaient en revanche trop sp\u00e9ciales. Nous avons alors stopp\u00e9 leur production et fait autre chose\u2009\u00bb, commente Mme\u202fDespont.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Patron et collaborateurs ne sont pas \u00e0 court d\u2019id\u00e9es. Pour preuve\u2009: lors de l\u2019interview (ndlr\u2009: r\u00e9alis\u00e9 en d\u00e9cembre), M.\u202fRytz songe \u00e0 un g\u00e2teau des rois Urdinkel. Lorsqu\u2019il expose son envie \u00e0 ses boulangers, ces derniers l\u2019avaient devanc\u00e9. La galette figure d\u2019ailleurs dans l\u2019assortiment de la Brioche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La confection de sp\u00e9cialit\u00e9s \u00e0 base de pur \u00e9peautre aurait-elle des limites\u2009? \u00ab\u2009Pas pour nous\u2009!\u2009\u00bb, r\u00e9torquent les artisans d\u2019une seule voix en guise de conclusion.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dans le Jura bernois, r\u00e9gionalisme, fait maison et cr\u00e9ativit\u00e9 sont les ma\u00eetres-mots de la boulangerie-confiserie La Brioche, Orvin (BE), de Manuel Rytz. Les sp\u00e9cialit\u00e9s authentiques y occupent une place de choix. Rencontre avec une \u00e9quipe de passionn\u00e9s. Nombreuses sont les success-stories qui ont d\u00e9but\u00e9 dans un garage. Un d\u00e9marrage atypique qui se retrouve parfois dans la boulangerie-confiserie. C\u2019est le cas […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9114,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[42,48],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9108","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-boulangeries-confiseries","category-production"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n\u00ab\u2009Se mettre devant le p\u00e9trin, observer, \u00e9couter\u2009\u00bb | SBC<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/swissbaker.ch\/fr\/panissimo-news\/se-mettre-devant-le-petrin-observer-ecouter\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u00ab\u2009Se mettre devant le p\u00e9trin, observer, \u00e9couter\u2009\u00bb\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dans le Jura bernois, r\u00e9gionalisme, fait maison et cr\u00e9ativit\u00e9 sont les ma\u00eetres-mots de la boulangerie-confiserie La Brioche, Orvin (BE), de Manuel Rytz. Les sp\u00e9cialit\u00e9s authentiques y occupent une place de choix. Rencontre avec une \u00e9quipe de passionn\u00e9s. Nombreuses sont les success-stories qui ont d\u00e9but\u00e9 dans un garage. Un d\u00e9marrage atypique qui se retrouve parfois dans la boulangerie-confiserie. 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