{"id":164050,"date":"2026-07-07T13:38:26","date_gmt":"2026-07-07T11:38:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/swissbaker.ch\/?p=164050"},"modified":"2026-07-07T14:12:07","modified_gmt":"2026-07-07T12:12:07","slug":"bert-donne-du-gout","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/swissbaker.ch\/fr\/panissimo-news\/bert-donne-du-gout\/","title":{"rendered":"Bert donne du go\u00fbt"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

En mars dernier, le boulanger-p\u00e2tissier Simon Schmid a d\u00e9congel\u00e9 Bert, rest\u00e9 dix ans au cong\u00e9lateur. Il entend d\u00e9sormais utiliser le levain plus souvent et de mani\u00e8re cibl\u00e9e dans la boulangerie M\u00e4rchy, \u00e0 N\u00e4fels (GL). <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dans le fournil de la boulangerie M\u00e4rchy, de grands bacs blancs remplis d\u2019ingr\u00e9dients secs sont pr\u00eats \u00e0 l\u2019emploi. Les stores sont baiss\u00e9s et l\u00e9g\u00e8rement inclin\u00e9s; le thermom\u00e8tre affiche d\u00e9j\u00e0 28 degr\u00e9s dans la r\u00e9gion de Glaris. Simon Schmid vide une caisse grise sur le plan de travail g\u00e9n\u00e9reusement farin\u00e9, puis commence \u00e0 peser des p\u00e2tons. \u00abC\u2019est un travail authentique que tout le monde ne fait pas\u00bb, explique le boulanger-p\u00e2tissier. A cela s\u2019ajoute la fra\u00eecheur incomparable du go\u00fbt. Un r\u00e9sultat qui, selon lui, justifie largement le temps n\u00e9cessaire \u00e0 la fabrication de pains au levain actif.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Un savoir-faire, de la dext\u00e9rit\u00e9 et beaucoup de farine. Voil\u00e0 tout ce dont Simon Schmid a besoin pour fa\u00e7onner ses pains au levain.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Malgr\u00e9 ses gestes rapides et assur\u00e9s, ses mains deviennent rapidement collantes au contact de la p\u00e2te. \u00abAujourd\u2019hui, 25\u202fminutes d\u2019appr\u00eat suffisent\u00bb, observe-t-il en fa\u00e7onnant les p\u00e2tons. Cette journ\u00e9e printani\u00e8re semble particuli\u00e8rement convenir \u00e0 la p\u00e2te principale: elle est souple, l\u00e9g\u00e8rement \u00e9lastique, facile \u00e0 travailler et conserve parfaitement sa tenue. Simon Schmid est satisfait de sa texture. Pour les besoins du reportage, il termine exceptionnellement un peu plus tard que pr\u00e9vu le \u00abBierspitz\u00bb, un pain au levain \u00e0 base de pommes de terre et de bi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dix ans au froid<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Bert est le nom du levain de base que Simon Schmid a re\u00e7u en 2012. Comment le d\u00e9crirait-il? \u00abRobuste, plein de caract\u00e8re. Il n\u2019a pas besoin d\u2019\u00eatre rafra\u00eechi chaque semaine. M\u00eame apr\u00e8s deux \u00e0 trois semaines au r\u00e9frig\u00e9rateur, il peut \u00eatre r\u00e9activ\u00e9\u00bb, explique le professionnel. En 2016, il a mis Bert sous vide avant de le congeler. Depuis, bien des choses se sont pass\u00e9es dans la vie du boulanger-p\u00e2tissier: la boulangerie familiale qu\u2019il exploitait avec ses deux fr\u00e8res, David et Markus, a cess\u00e9 son activit\u00e9. Par amour, ce natif de B\u00e2le-Campagne s\u2019est install\u00e9 dans le canton de Glaris. En mars dernier, il s\u2019est souvenu de Bert, qui reposait toujours dans le cong\u00e9lateur de son fr\u00e8re, et est all\u00e9 le r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer pour r\u00e9veiller son levain de base de sa longue hibernation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Roman M\u00e4rchy, Simon Schmid et Reto M\u00e4rchy avec le levain Bert.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00abTravailler avec du levain, c\u2019est plus un passe-temps qu\u2019un travail\u00bb, confie Simon Schmid, qui a suivi en mars le cours de base consacr\u00e9 au levain \u00e0 l\u2019Ecole professionnelle Richemont, afin d\u2019approfondir ses connaissances. Comme il avait rafra\u00eechi Bert avant cette formation, il reconna\u00eet que cela ne s\u2019est pas d\u00e9roul\u00e9 de mani\u00e8re optimale, m\u00eame si le levain lui a finalement pardonn\u00e9. A l\u2019issue de la formation, le levain a rapidement retrouv\u00e9 toute sa vigueur fermentaire gr\u00e2ce aux connaissances acquises: \u00abJe l\u2019ai rafra\u00eechi trois fois et j\u2019ai laiss\u00e9 son volume doubler \u00e0 chaque fois. C\u2019est la proc\u00e9dure id\u00e9ale.\u00bb Quelques semaines d\u2019essais et de d\u00e9gustations ont ensuite suffi pour mettre les recettes au point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Son employeur accueille cette initiative avec enthousiasme. \u00abLa demande en pain au levain ne faiblit pas\u00bb, constate Reto M\u00e4rchy, qui dirige l\u2019entreprise avec son fr\u00e8re jumeau Roman. \u00abJusqu\u2019\u00e0 pr\u00e9sent, nous ne proposions du pain au levain que le samedi; nous souhaitons d\u00e9sormais le faire chaque jour.\u00bb …<\/p>\n\n\n\n

… Lisez l’article complet dans Panissimo du 3 juillet 2026<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

baeckerei-maerchy.ch<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Texte et photos: Diego Schwerzmann<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

En mars dernier, le boulanger-p\u00e2tissier Simon Schmid a d\u00e9congel\u00e9 Bert, rest\u00e9 dix ans au cong\u00e9lateur. Il entend d\u00e9sormais utiliser
\nle levain plus souvent et de mani\u00e8re cibl\u00e9e dans la boulangerie M\u00e4rchy, \u00e0 N\u00e4fels (GL). \u2002Page\u202f28<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":164042,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[42,48],"tags":[1447,1448,1446,1449],"class_list":["post-164050","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-boulangeries-confiseries","category-production","tag-boulangerie-marchy","tag-nafels","tag-pains-au-levain","tag-simon-schmid"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBert donne du go\u00fbt | SBC<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"On entend d\u00e9sormais utiliser le levain plus souvent et de mani\u00e8re cibl\u00e9e dans la boulangerie M\u00e4rchy, \u00e0 N\u00e4fels (GL).\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, 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