{"id":160173,"date":"2026-03-17T15:14:18","date_gmt":"2026-03-17T14:14:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/swissbaker.ch\/?p=160173"},"modified":"2026-03-18T09:14:38","modified_gmt":"2026-03-18T08:14:38","slug":"des-pains-de-caractere","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/swissbaker.ch\/fr\/panissimo-news\/des-pains-de-caractere\/","title":{"rendered":"Des pains de caract\u00e8re"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ils s\u2019appellent Mafioso, Hildegard et Luici: Ueli Niederberger, de l\u2019Ecole professionnelle Richemont a analys\u00e9 trois levains de base dans son travail de dipl\u00f4me, r\u00e9alis\u00e9 dans le cadre de la formation de sommelier du pain. Il a ainsi d\u00e9couvert leur influence sensorielle sur le pain.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Certains sont \u00e9quilibr\u00e9s et doux, d\u2019autres singuliers et amers, d\u2019autres encore dominants et acides. Tout comme chaque levain de base, chaque pain au levain a son propre caract\u00e8re. Y a-t-il un lien entre les deux? Quelle influence les diff\u00e9rentes cultures de levain ont-elles sur les propri\u00e9t\u00e9s sensorielles des pains? C\u2019est notamment \u00e0 ces questions qu\u2019Ueli Niederberger, ma\u00eetre de cours et conseiller en boulangerie, p\u00e2tisserie et confiserie \u00e0 l\u2019Ecole professionnelle Richemont de Lucerne, a consacr\u00e9 son travail de dipl\u00f4me dans le cadre de sa formation de sommelier du pain. Cet article en r\u00e9sume la d\u00e9marche et les r\u00e9sultats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mafioso, Hildegard et Luici<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019Ecole professionnelle Richemont dispose d\u2019une s\u00e9lection de onze levains de base dans sa biblioth\u00e8que ad hoc. Au d\u00e9but de son \u00e9tude, Ueli Niederberger en a s\u00e9lectionn\u00e9 trois. Ce choix n\u2019\u00e9tait pas le fruit du hasard: il a fait analyser chimiquement et microbiologiquement neuf starters par la Haute \u00e9cole des sciences appliqu\u00e9es de Zurich. Un crit\u00e8re personnel a \u00e9galement guid\u00e9 le choix de ce dernier, qui est de Suisse centrale: \u00abDans le cadre de ce travail, je me suis concentr\u00e9 sur la variante traditionnelle du \u2039Luzerner Wegge\u203a (pain lucernois).\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ag\u00e9 de huit ans, le Mafioso est \u00e0 base de bl\u00e9 dur. Il permet le rendement en p\u00e2te le plus \u00e9lev\u00e9 (160) et pr\u00e9sente le pH le plus doux. Le levain de base Hildegard, \u00e0 base d\u2019\u00e9peautre pur, avait quant \u00e0 lui neuf ans au moment de l\u2019\u00e9tude et contenait un nombre particuli\u00e8rement \u00e9lev\u00e9 de micro-organismes actifs dans une combinaison robuste. Plus ancien encore \u2013 bien que tra\u00e7able seulement depuis 1999 \u2013 Luici est arriv\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9cole depuis l\u2019Italie via un \u00e9v\u00e9nement. Il est \u00e0 base de farine de bl\u00e9 et contient quatre types principaux de bact\u00e9ries lactiques, contre deux pour Mafioso et Hildegard. Tous trois ont en commun d\u2019\u00eatre conduits entre 28 et 30\u202f\u00b0C, avec une chute progressive du pH de >5 et une valeur cible d\u2019environ 4,2 \u00e0 4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Trois fois quatre recettes Avec chacun des trois levains de base, quatre recettes de pain ont \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9alis\u00e9es selon une conduite en deux \u00e9tapes. L\u2019objectif \u00e9tait de d\u00e9terminer si les caract\u00e9ristiques des trois starters se retrouvaient dans les pains.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Pour son travail de dipl\u00f4me, Ueli Niederberger, de l\u2019Ecole professionnelle Richemont, a pass\u00e9 trois levains au crible<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Douze pains ont ainsi \u00e9t\u00e9 obtenus pour \u00eatre \u00e9valu\u00e9s par un panel sensoriel de 13 personnes \u2013 compos\u00e9 de sp\u00e9cialistes en analyse sensorielle du pain, de boulangers, ainsi que de consommateurs \u2013 constitu\u00e9 dans le cadre de l\u2019\u00e9tude. L\u2019accent a \u00e9t\u00e9 mis sur l\u2019odeur, le go\u00fbt et la persistance en bouche. \u00abDes notes malt\u00e9es, vinaigr\u00e9es, herbac\u00e9es et c\u00e9r\u00e9ali\u00e8res ont souvent \u00e9t\u00e9 mentionn\u00e9es, compl\u00e9t\u00e9es par des composantes noisett\u00e9es, terreuses ou fum\u00e9es\u00bb, r\u00e9sume Ueli Niederberger dans son travail. Ces profils aromatiques et gustatifs caract\u00e9risaient tous les pains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le go\u00fbt fait la diff\u00e9rence<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00abLes profils aromatiques des levains de base ne se refl\u00e8tent que partiellement, voire pas du tout, dans le pain\u00bb, tel est le verdict du sommelier du pain concernant l\u2019odeur. Seules les notes acidul\u00e9es \u00e9taient perceptibles dans les pains. \u00abD\u2019un point de vue aromatique, il \u00e9tait tr\u00e8s difficile d\u2019attribuer des diff\u00e9rences aux levains de base.\u00bb Parmi les recettes, la s\u00e9rie 3 \u2013 le \u00abLuzerner Wegge\u00bb (pain lucernois) \u2013 s\u2019est distingu\u00e9e par son ar\u00f4me malt\u00e9 et fum\u00e9 ainsi que par son profil plus rond et terreux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La perception gustative a en revanche r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 des diff\u00e9rences entre les levains de base utilis\u00e9s: les pains \u00e9labor\u00e9s avec le starter Mafioso pr\u00e9sentaient des notes plus am\u00e8res, tandis que ceux \u00e0 base de Luici se caract\u00e9risaient par une acidit\u00e9 remarquablement douce. \u00abLuici a obtenu des r\u00e9sultats allant de moyens \u00e0 excellents, alors que Mafioso et Hildegard n\u2019ont pas plu \u00e0 tout le monde\u00bb, explique le ma\u00eetre de cours \u00e0 propos de l\u2019\u00e9valuation du panel. \u00abL\u2019analyse montre que les diff\u00e9rents levains de base \u00e9taient reconnaissables \u2013 m\u00eame pour des testeurs et testeuses non form\u00e9s.\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En combinaison avec les r\u00e9sultats de l\u2019analyse microbiologique, Ueli Niederberger avance l\u2019hypoth\u00e8se suivante: \u00abUn \u00e9taiement plus large par diff\u00e9rentes souches principales pourrait conduire \u00e0 un profil aromatique plus vari\u00e9 et plus \u00e9quilibr\u00e9. Cette piste devrait toutefois faire l\u2019objet d\u2019\u00e9tudes plus approfondies\u00bb, pr\u00e9cise le sommelier du pain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diego Schwerzmann
Photos: Richemont Fachschule; BCS<\/sup><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ils s\u2019appellent Mafioso, Hildegard et Luici: Ueli Niederberger, de l\u2019Ecole professionnelle Richemont
\na analys\u00e9 trois levains de base dans son travail de dipl\u00f4me, r\u00e9alis\u00e9 dans le cadre de la formation de sommelier du pain. Il a ainsi d\u00e9couvert leur influence sensorielle sur le pain.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":160154,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[56],"tags":[993,1288,1286],"class_list":["post-160173","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-levain-chef","tag-ecole-professionnelle-richemont","tag-le-pain","tag-levains-de-base"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDes pains de caract\u00e8re | SBC<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/swissbaker.ch\/fr\/panissimo-news\/des-pains-de-caractere\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Des pains de caract\u00e8re\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Ils s\u2019appellent Mafioso, Hildegard et Luici: Ueli Niederberger, de l\u2019Ecole professionnelle Richemont a analys\u00e9 trois levains de base dans son travail de dipl\u00f4me, r\u00e9alis\u00e9 dans le cadre de la formation de sommelier du pain. 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